Force-lasted shoe with end stiffener and method of making same



FORCE-LASTED SHOE WITH END STIFFENER AND METHOD OF' MAKING SAME FiledJune 5, 1945 2 Sheets-Sheet 1 April 19 1949 J. s. KAMBORIAN y2,467,386

April 19, 1949 J. s. KAMBORIAN 2,467,386

FORCE-LASTED SHOE WITH END STIFFENER AND METHOD 0F MAKING SAME FiledJune 5, 1945 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 Patented Apr. 19, 1949 FORCE-LASTED SHOEWITH END S'IIFFENER AND METHOD F MAKING SAME Jacob S. Kamborian, WestNewton, Mass. Applicatie June 5, 1945, serial No. 597,506

This invention relates to an improvement in footwear and in the methodof making footwear and more particularly to an improvement in shoes andthe method of making shoes, which shoes can be made quickly and easilyby force-lasting the assembled upper and sock lining, securing a midsoleto the sock lining, wiping in and cementing the lasting margin of theupper to the midsole and cementing an outsole to the midsole and to thewiped-in lasting margin. The present in vention represents a furtherdevelopment of the invention disclosed in the copending United Statesapplication of Kamborian, Serial No. 527,101 filed March 18, 1944,Patent No. 2,450,666 granted October 5, 1948.

One feature of this invention resides in the fact that the sock liningof the shoe is' attached at the heel to the lining of the quarter of theupper, is free at the toe from the vamp of the upper but is secured bystitches to the vamp rearwardly of the free toe portion.

Another feature of the shoe resides in the fact that the heel isprovided with a counter inserted between the lining and outer ply of thequarter. such counter preferably being provided with a flange in theform of a horseshoe bonded to a lmidsole over the joinder of the quarterlining and the sock lining, thereby dening a recess in which the heel ofthe wearer is received.

Still another feature of the shoe resides in the fact that the socklining, not being attached to the upper at the toe of the shoe, therebyaffords easy access to the inner face of the upper to facilitate theapplication of a toe box or other stiiencr after the upper and socklining have been assembled.

Further features of this invention reside inthe fact that the shoe maybe provided with a storm welt by which the appearance of the shoe isimproved, and in the method of making the shoe.

These and other features will be pointed out in detail in the followingdescription of this invention as embodied in shoes selected as twoembodiments of the invention and illustrated in the accompanyingdrawings in which:

Fig. 1 is a view in elevation of a shoe representing one embodiment ofthis invention;

Fig. 2 is a longitudinal section of the shoe shown in Fig. 1;

Fig. 3l ris a plan view of a sock lining formed for the shoe shown inFig. 1;

"Figs..4, 5 and 6 are sectional views taken along thesection lines 4-4,5-5 and 6--6 on Fig. 1, the thickness of some of the elements and the 17Claims. (Cl. 36-19.5)

spacesbetween the elements being exaggerated for the purpose of clarity;y

Fig. 7 is a perspective view of the shoe in the inverted position afterthe last has been introduced and before the lasting margin of the upperhas been lasted, the heel portion only of the midsole being shown;

Fig. 8 is a. view, similar to Fig. 1, of a shoe representing a secondembodiment of the invention;

Fig. 9 is a plan view of the outsole of such shoe in condition forassembly with the other parts of the shoe;

Fig. 10 is an enlarged cross-sectional view taken along the line Ill-l 0of Fig. 8; and

Fig. 11 is a fragmentary section illustrating an outsole of furthermodified type.

I'he shoe I comprises an upper 2 which consists of a vamp 3 and aquarter 4, a sock lining 5, a midsole 6 and an outsole 1. The vamp 3 inthe illustrated embodiment is not lined while the quarter 4 is providedwith a lining 8. A lining for the vamp also may be provided if desiredwith-'- out departing from the spirit and scope of this invention. v

The sock lining 5 is provided at each side with two severings in themargin such severings being shown in the drawings and referred to hereinas notches 9 at opposite sides of the forepart and slits I0 adjacent thebreast line of the heel. The upper 2 and the sock lining 5 are assembledby the use of stitches, mechanical fasteners or the like which attachthe heel portion of the sock lining, between the slits l0, to the loweredge of the lining 8 of the quarter 4, and the portions of the socklining, between the notch 8 and the slit l0 at each side, to the4 loweredge of the -lining 8 of the quarter and the lower edge of the vamp 3.This assembly follows in general the usual practice followed in themanufacture of that type of shoes known in the trade as California,force-lasted or slip-lasted, and results in a unit into which a last isforced.

The introduction of the last into the unit i. e. forcelasting, placesthe upper and the area of the sock lining joined thereto under tension.

The upper 2 is vamped"-i. e. the rear edge of the vamp is secured to theforward edge of the quarter between the lining and outer ply thereof byone or more rows of stitches S-either before the sock lining is attachedthereto, or after the sock lining has been attached to the lining of thequarter and before the sock lining is attached to the vamp.

As shown in Fig. 7, the portions of the margin of the sock lining thatare attached to the vamp 3 and the lining 8 extend downwardly and inseam, but without any implication that the shoe herein disclosed is aGoodyear welt shoe or that the rib necessarily comprises stitches as themeans for uniting its constituent plies. This rib or inseam Il togetherwith the unattached lower edge of the vamp at the toe denes a shallowcavity i2. The lining 8 terminates at the edge of the sock lining butthe lower marginal portion of the vamp 3 extends beyond that edge toform a lasting allowance. The stitches I3 attaching the vamp 3 to thesock lining are-visible at the sides of the shoe.

After force lasting the upper and insole unit, the midsole 3 is securedto the sock lining within the chamber i2, preferably by bonding it tothe under surface of the sock lining by a suitable adhesive. The midsole8, which is of a soft, resiiient material such as cork, felt, or fiber,is of such dimensions that it will substantially fill the chamber l2,with its under surface in the plane of the edge of the inseam or ribWhile the midsole is preferably cut from sheet material it iscontemplated that it may be of other types of material, as for examplemoldable plastic materials which are placed in the chamber l2 andlevelled off to provide a flat bottom in the plane mentioned above.

The vamp 3 and the quarter 4 comprise lasting margins that arewiped inover the inseam or rib against the bottom surface of the midsole 6 andsecured thereto preferably by suitable adhesive. The outsole I isthereafter laid onto the under surface of the midsole 6 and the outersurface of the'wiped-in lasting margins and secured thereto in anydesired manner preferably being adhesively bonded thereto.

If the shoe is to be provided with a counter I I, that element isinserted between the quarter l and the lining 8 thereof, either beforeor after the upper and sock lining has been force-lasted. In theembodiments illustrated in the drawings, a counter' I5 having anintegral flange I6 is inserted after the unit has been force lasted. Thecounter has been preformed, and when inserted, the flange I6 extendsover that portion of the inseam or rib Ii bounded by the slots III andis adhesively bonded to the midsole I. The flange Il is in the shape ofa horseshoe so that the center of the sock lining and midsole at theheel is unsupported and in consequence the weight of the wearer willdepress and form a recess which receives the heel of the wearer'.

A stiifener at the toe may be provided after the sock lining and upperunit has been made and before the midsole 6 has been applied and thelast has been introduced. The free toe of -the sock lining is turnedback to provide an opening through which access may be had to the innersurface of the toe of the upper, see Fig. 2. and the toe box I1,inserted through the opening thus provided, is adhesively affixed to theinner surface of the toe of the upper. Before the last is inserted, thetoe portion of the sock lining is restored to its original position, andafter lasting becomes adhesively united to the midsole 6.

If, in accordance with the usual practice. the

toe box is of moldable, plastic or thermoplastic material, the last,when introduced into the unit. will mold the toe box into conformitywith the toe of the shoe and by the time the shoe has been completed andthe last removed the toe box will have set. The toe box material may beactivated by the application of heat, for example, by subjecting theshoe to the influence of ultra red rays. This invention thus rendersunnecessary the procedure of ailixing the toe box to the vamp beforeassembly as disclosed in the copending application and permits theapplication of the toe box after the upper and sock lining have beenassembled. A heel wedge 1a may be assembled with the midsole before theoutsole is applied.

The procedure of providing stiffeners outlined in the copendingKamborian application Serial No. 561,282, med-October 31, 1944, nowPatent No. 2,414,104 may be employed if desired. A shank stiiener I8 ofany well-known type may he1 provided between the midsole 6 and the outsoe 1.

'I'he shoe i9, shown in Fig. 8 as a second embodiment, differs from thatdescribed above solely in that the outside 20 thereof is over-sized andis provided with a storm welt 2|. 'I'he storm welt 2| is of a textilefabric, leather, plastic or other resilient material and is of the crosssectional contour shown in Fig. 10, having an outer wall 22 and an innerWall 23 'normally spaced apart. 'I'he outer wall 22 is secured in anysuitable manner to the outsole 2li along its edge before the latter isincorporated in the shoe. As shown in this ligure the outer wall 22includes a flange 24 which rests upon the upper surface of the outsoleand is bonded thereto as by the use of stitching, mechanical fastenersor adhesive. The strip 2| thus forms a continuous wall, enclosing acentral area 25 which receives the under surface of the midsole 6 in thefinished shoe.

After the upper, sock lining and midsole have been assembled asdescribed above, the assembly is disposed upon the central area 25 ofthe upper surface of the outsole and adhesively secured thereto. 'lhestrip 2| is so mounted that the edges of the assembly will bear againstthe inner wall 23 and urge it outwardly a greater or lesser distancetoward the'outer wall 22. Thus a close contact is insured between thestorm welt 2| and the outer surface of the upper 2, (see Fig. l0), andthe stitches I3, otherwise visible at the vamp, will be concealed.Preferably the outer surface of the upper which contacts with the stripis roughened, through abrading or otherwise, and provided with adhesiveby which the inner wall is secured to the upper. The contact of theupper with the strip 2|, as the outsole and assembly are joined, isdirected downwardly and outwardly upon the inner wall 23 so that thelatter is pressed downwardly against the surface of the outsole as wellas outwardly toward the outer wall 23. The strip 2| in the finished shoeis thereby bonded to the upper and any danger of separation therefrom iseliminated. In place of a separate storm welt, a moulded outsole Ilhaving an integral wall 3| may be provided. (See Fig. 11).

While this invention has been described with respect to the making ofchildrens shoes it will be understood that it is not limited to suchshoes but may be employed inthe manufacture of shoes of any desired sizeand of other types with'- out departing from the spirit and scope of theinvention as set forth in the following claims.

I claim:

1. A shoe of the class described including an upper, comprising a vampand a lined quarter, a sock lining permanently attached to the lining ofthe quarter and to the vamp except at the toe of the shoe, the toeportion of the sock lining being unattached to the vamp, the attachedmargin of the sock lining forming a rib aith the lining of the quarterand the vamp, which rib dennes, with the remainder of the sock liningand the vamp at the toe of the shoe, a chamber, and a midsole seated insaid chamber and secured to the sock lining, the bottom of which midsoleis in the plane of the edge of the rib, the quarter and vamp comprisinglasting margins which are wiped in over the edge of the rib and bondedto the bottom surface of the midsole.

2. A shoe of the class described including an upper, comprising a vampand a lined quarter, a sock lining permanently attached to the lining ofthe quarter and to the vamp except at the toe of the shoe, the toeportion of the sock lining being unattached to the vamp, the attachedmargin of the sock lining forming a rib with the lining of the quarterand the vamp, which rib denes, with the remainder of the sock lining andthe vamp Iat the toe of the shoe, a chamber, a midsole seated in saidchamber and secured to the sock lining, the bottom of which midsole isin the plane of the edge of the rib, the quarter and vamp comprisinglasting margins which are wiped in over the edge of the rib and bondedto the bottom surface of the midsole, an outsole laid onto and securedto the bottom surface of the midsole and to the outer surfaces of thewiped-in lasting margins, and a storm welt secured to the outsole inclose contact with the quarter and vamp of the upper.

3. A shoe of the class described including an upper comprisin-g a vampand a lined quarter, and a sock lining permanently Iattached at itsmargin to the lining of the quarter and to the vamp except at the toe ofthe shoe, that portion of the sock lining being unattached to the vamp,the attached margin of the sock lining forming a rib with the lining ofthe quarter and the vamp, and a midsole secured to the sock liningwithin said rib, the vamp and quarter comprising lasting margins whichare wiped in over the rib and bonded to the bottom surface of themidsole.

4. A shoe of the class described including an upper comprising a vampand a lined quarter, and a sock lining permanently attached at itsmargin to the lining of the quarter and to the vamp except at the toe ofthe shoe, that portion of the sock lining being unattached to the vamp,the attached margin of the sock lining forming a rib with the lining ofthe quarter and the vamp, a midsole secured to the sock lining withinsaid rib, the vamp and quarter comprising lasting margins which arewiped in over the rib and bonded to the bottom surface of the midsole,and an outsole bonded to the bottom surface of the midsole and to theouter surfaces of said wiped-in lasting margins, said outsole beingprovided with a storm welt which encloses the upper of the shoe.

5. In a shoe of the class described, a sock lining provided at each sidewith two spaced severings in the margin thereof, a lined quarter and avamp, the margin of the sock lining at each side, between saidseverings, being attached to said vamp by a sewed seam spaced from thelower edge of the vamp, the vamp below said seam constituting a lastingallowance, and the margin of the sock lining around the heel between therear severings on each side being attached only to the lining o! thequarter, the lasting allowance of the vamp underlying the sock lining.

6. In a shoe of the class described, a sock lining provided at each sidewith two spaced severin-gs in the margin thereof, a lined quarter and avamp, the margin of the sock lining, at each side, between saidseverings being attached to said vamp, by a sewed seam spaced from thelower edge of the vamp, the margin of the vamp below said seamconstituting a lasting allowance, and the margin of the sock liningaround the heel between the rear severings on each side being attachedto the lining only of the quarter, said attached margin, vamp andquarter forming a rib, the lasting allowance of the vamp underlying therib, the toe end of the sock lining between the forward severings beingfree from the vamp.

'1. In a shoe of the class described, a sock lining provided at eachside with two spaced severings in the mar-gin thereof, a lined quarterand an unlined vamp, the margin of the sock lining at each side, betweensaid severings, being attached to said vamp by a sewed seam spaced fromthe lower edge of the vamp, the margin of the vamp below said seamconstituting a lasting allowance, and the margin of the sock liningaround the heel, between the rear severings on each side, being attachedto the lining only of the quarter, said attached margin, vamp andquarter forming a rib. which extend downwardly from the remainder of thesock lining, the lasting allowance of the vamp underlying the socklining, the sock lining, be-l tween the forward severings, being freefrom the vamp.

8. In a shoe of the class described, a sock linin-g provided at eachside with two spaced severings in the margin thereof, a lined quarterand a vamp, the margin of the sock lining at each side between saidseverings, being attached to said vamp by a sewed seam spaced from thelower edge of the vamp, the margin of the vamp below said' seamconstituting a lasting allowance, and the margin of the sock 'liningaround the heel, between the rear severings on each side, being attachedto the lining only of the quarter, said attached margin, vamp andqua-rter forming a rib which extends downwardly from the remainder ofthe sock lining, the sock lining, between the forward severings, beingfree from the vamp, and define a chamber, and a midsole seated in saidchamber and secured to the sock lining, the lasting allowance of thevamp underlying and being united to said mid-sole.

9. In a shoe of the class described, an upper comprising a vamp and alined quarter, a sock lining attached at its margin to the vamp and tothe lining of the quarter to form therewith a rib,

a midsole secured to said sock lining within said rib, the vampcomprising a lasting allowance underlying said rib and united to theunder side of the mid-sole, and a counter inserted between the liningand outer ply of the quarter, said counter having an integral flangewhich extends over the rib and bears against the bottom surface of themidsole, said ilange being in the shape of a. horseshoe to permit theweight of the wearer to depress the portion of the midsole within theange and form a heel receiving recess thereby.

10.v That method of making a shoe of the class described which comprisesthe following steps, providing an upper having a vamp and a linedquarter, providing a sock lining, attaching the margin of the socklining to the vamp, except at the toe thereof. and to the lining of thequarter thereby forming a downwardly extending rib, introducing a lastto tension the upper and sock lining, securing a midsole to the bottomsurface of the sock lining within said rib, wiping in the lower marginsof the vamp and quarter over said rib onto the bottom surface of themidsole and securing said wiped-in margins thereto, and laying anoutsole onto the bottom surface of the midsole and the outer surfaces ofsaid wiped-in margins and securing it thereto.

11. That method of making a shoe of the class described which comprisesthe following steps, providing an upper having a vamp and a linedquarter, providing a sock lining having aligned notches at oppositesides of the forepart and aligned slits at the opposite sides adjacentthe breast line of the heel, stitching the lining of the quarter of theupper to the margin of the sock lining around the heel between theslits, stitching the vamp of the upper to the margin ofthe sock liningbetween the notch and slit at each side of the sock lining, saidstitching forming a downwardly extending rib, introducing a last totension the upper and sock lining, bonding a midsole to the undersurface of the sock lining within such rib, wiping the lower margins ofthe vamp and quarter in over the rib against the bottom surface of themidsole and bonding them thereto, and bonding an outsole to the undersurface of the midsole and the outer surfaces of said wipedin margins.

12. That method of making a shoe of the class described which comprisesthe following steps, providing an upper having a vamp and a linedquarter, providing a sock lining having aligned notches at oppositesides of the forepart and aligned slits at the opposite sides adjacentthe breast line of the heel, stitching the lining of the quarter of theupper to the margin of the sock lining around the heel between theslits, stitching the vamp of the upper to the margin of the sock liningbetween the notch and slit at eacb, side of the sock lining, saidstitching forming a downwardly vextending rib, introducing a last totension the upper and sock lining, bonding a midsole to the undersurface of the sock lining within such rib, wiping or pounding the lowermargins of the vamp and quarter in over the rib against the bottomsurface of the midsole and bondin-g said wiped-in margins to themid-sole, providing an outsole, securing a storm welt upon the upper.surface of the outsole around the edge thereof to define a centralarea, and bonding said central area of the upper surface of the outsoleto the under surface of the midsole and the outer surfaces of saidwiped-in margins with the lstorm welt in contact with the outer surfaceof the shoe upper.

13. That method of making a. shoe of the class described which comprisesthe following steps, providing an upper having a vamp and a linedquarter, providing a sock lining having aligned notches lat oppositesides of the forepart and aligned slits at the opposite sides of thesock lining at the forward edge of the heel, stitching the lining of thequarter of the upper to the margin of the sock lining around the heelbetween the slits, stitching the vamp of the upper to the margin of thesock lining between the notch and slit at each side of the sock lining,said stitching forming a downwardly extending rib introducing a last totension the upper and sock lining, bonding a midsole to the undersurface of the sock lining within such rib, wiping the lower margins ofthe vamp and quarter in over the rib against the bottom surface of themidsole and bonding them thereto, providing an outsole, providing a.l

14. That method of making a shoe of the class described which comprisesthe following steps, providing an upper comprising an unlined vamp,providing a sock lining, stitching the margin of the sock lining to thevamp by a sewed seam spaced from the lower edge of the vamp, except atthe toe thereof, displacing the toe of the sock lining to provide anopening which affords access to the inner surface of the toe portion ofthe vamp, inserting a toe box through such opening and aixing it to theinner surface of the toe portion of the vamp, introducing a last totension the upper and sock lining and to hold the toe box in contactwith the inner surface of the vamp, securing a midsole to the socklining, wiping the lower margin of the vamp, below the seam which unitesthe vamp and sock lining, in upon the bottom surface of the midsole, andsecuring an outsole to the bottom surface of the midsole and the outersurface of the wiped-in margin of the vamp.

15. A shoe of the class described including an upper, a sock lining, anouter sole and ller means interposed between the sock lining and outersole, the upper comprising a lasting allowance which underlies and whichis united to said filler means, and a. storm welt bonded to the outersole and defining a central area of the upper surface of the outersoleupon which the filler means rests, said storm welt having an outer wallfixed to the outer sole and an inner wall which is closely engaged bythe shoe upper and which is deflected by the upper toward said outerwall of the welt.

16. A shoe of the California type comprising an upper assembly includinga vamp and quarter and a bottom element, the vamp and quarter havingmarginal lasting allowances which underlie said bottom element, and anouter sole having a storm welt bonded thereto to define a central areaof the upper surface of the outersole, means uniting the bottom elementof the upper assembly to said central area of the outersole, the stormwelt comprising an outer wall which is xed to the outer sole, the weltalso including an inner wall, the vamp and quarter of the uppercontacting said inner wall, and means bonding the outer surfaces of thevamp and quarter to said inner wall of the welt.

17. A shoe of the class described including an upper, a sock lining, anouter sole, and ller means interposed between the sock lining and outersole, the upper having a lasting allowance which underlies the iillermeans, a, storm welt bonded to the outer sole and defining a centralarea of the upper surface of the outersole upon which the filler meansrests, adhesive uniting the ller means to said central area of the uppersurface of the outersole, the storm welt having an outer wall xed to theouter sole and an integral inner wall which is contacted by the shoeupper, and means bonding the outer surface of the upper to said innerwall of the welt.

JACOB S. KAMBORIAN.

(References on following me) :mense 9 REFERENCES CITED buzgo Thefollowing references are of record in the 213461651 le of this patent:2,354,903 2,391,437 UNITED STATES PATENTS d 1422,68 4 Number Name Date153,830 Hussey Aug. 4, 1874 1,248,108 v Hays NOV. 27, 1917 Number1,784,806 Fried Dec.9, 1930 10 355,610 ,1,908,486 Peabody May 9, 1933Name Date Weidner June 17, 1941 Brown Apr. 18, 1944 Wolff Aug. 1, 1944Moskowitz et al. Dec. 25, 1945 Kamborian et al. June 24, 1947 FOREIGNPATENTS Country Date Italy Jan. 12, 193s

